CELEBRATING EID IN JEDDAH

I have been working here in Saudi Arabia for more than a dozen years now but I have been to Jeddah (in the western part of the Kingdom) very few times. And this latest foray into the city by the Red Sea, when we spent five nights and four days thereat during the Eid Al Fitr holidays, could be one of the most enjoyable.

We were a party of five - myself, my Bebe, Gary, Jarec and Woitech. We checked into the Al Bilad Hotel along Jeddah’s cornice. It was relatively cheap lodging (at SR300+15%/night) and most importantly, we gained access to the Al Bilad Beach [at the Obhur district], which was perfect for our snorkeling fantasies.

Indeed, the trip to Jeddah [8- to 10-hour driving along more than a thousand kilometers of road] was decided on precisely for the opportunity to go snorkeling at the Red Sea. It’s a lot of fun since even if the water isn’t too deep, one can already see the wonders under the sea - even if the perennial “gutter girl” that I am have to content myself with a lot of Dory’s and a few Red Sea denizens I have no real idea of as far as their names are concerned, but could include anemonefish, cardinalfish, angelfish, and butterflyfish. I was facetiously hoping I could catch a glimpse of a Nemo but nada. Suffice it to say that just watching fish of many colors, as well as corals of various hues (purple, green, yellow and cream) and such other creatures as sea anemones and sea urchins, were enough to consider myself a Red Sea snorkler. What more for the likes of my Bebe, Gary, Jarec and Woitech, who dove [complete with flippers] to depths 10 meters or deeper to take photographs of huge clams and octopuses? I’m sure they had a lot more fun under the sea.

During this particular Jeddah sojourn, I came to appreciate why wearing at least the basics of snorkeling gear can translate into a most enjoyable snorkeling experience. Because the Red Sea floor is quite uneven, what with all those sharp coral protusions and rock formations, it is imperative to snorkel with your feet sod either in flippers or in snorkeling/diving shoes. And it goes without saying that it is helpful to have your own mask and breathing tube!

Apart from snorkeling, we spent the holidays sleeping, drinking (at least for the four other guys), a bit of shopping, eating/dining, picture-taking and going around Jeddah’s malls and main streets.

The best dining experience for me hands-down, was at Casper & Gambini’s. Loved the food but loved the ambience even better. It is a Lebanese-owned café that also serves healthy meals. I thought the C&G building was awesome. Too bad I did not have my camera with me on the night we dined there. I was imagining that one of these days, my Bebe and I would live in a house inspired by C&G. Sadly, we never had the chance to get back. For the next dinners, we had them invariably at the hotel, at Zee Noodles, and at Balsamico. We missed the right turn to the street leading to Balsamico which got us to Falasteen street which did not have an easy U-turn route. So we had to make a circuitous trip back which actually meant we got lost along the way and found our way back to the right road (at Thalateen) two hours later. But Balsamico was an excellent Italian fusion dining experience as well so no regrets and recriminations. Zee Noodles as usual served excellent Japanese and Chinese food.

Just like Riyadh, Jeddah is now a city of malls! We had our share of malling and a bit of shopping at the Thalia Shopping Center and at the Roshan Mall.

On the first day of Eid Al Fitr, we stayed put at the hotel in anticipation of monstrous traffic due to the scheduled fireworks. We were not mistaken. Traffic along the cornice was at a standstill before, during and after the explosions in the night sky. In what is turning to be a traditional highlight of Saudi celebrations, the pyrotechnics display did not disappoint. [The fireworks were done over three nights; we caught the second and third nights back here in Riyadh.]

A special side trip we made was the visit to Jeddah’s historic district. The old, dilapidated buildings were adorned with exquisite wooden panels, some of which were carved. Too bad, the area looks neglected, dirty and really poverty-stricken. Nonetheless, the site was to behold despite the faded and fading grandeur hidden behind.

Our trip to Jeddah this year was really memorable. We can only wish a repeat some time in the future.

And what can I say but wish you were there?